what method should be used to anchor the flexible track to a ceiling system for a curved hanging soffit installation. Will the track be strong enough to subpport the vertical hanging studs if the attachment is midspan?

Hi Terri, Anchoring the flexible track to a ceiling system or structure above will be fundamentally the same as anchoring a typical straight metal track(runner). Neither track is designed to carry a hanging load where the attachment is midspan. Typically it is recommended to install a vertical stud in line with the point of anchoring attachment to the structure above. If the soffit is so large and heavy that even the framing screw attachment used to attach the studs may fail then it is recommended to hang the soffit by all-threads which are fastened to the structure above and to the SIDES of the studs directly below them in the wall of the soffit. These all-threads can be run down through the flexible plate, hidden within the soffit wall. Many designers add a wide band (as needed for the anticipated load) of sheet metal, horizontally to the side of the studs along the curved soffit wall. This can reduce the vertical deflection or sag between supports where the wall covering alone and its recommended method of fastening are not sufficient to prevent sagging. (Gypsum board is strong in a plane, but the screws installed along the edges may break loose, greatly reducing any hanging, load-bearing capabilities of the board.) Let me know if you need further clarifications, Thanks, Frank Wheeler, Flex-Ability Concepts , LLC 405-570-8323

I need to construct a moveable, curved partition for a museum display. Since I cannot connect this partition to the floor or ceiling; but, I will use lateral supports to connect it to an adjacent wall of the main bulding. What can use as "feet" to stabilize the partition? Flex-C has a product they use for vertical deflection called a D-Flexion post. Could I use that?

The amount of lateral bracing needed for a moveable curved partition depends largely on the radius of the curve. The good news is that the radius of the curved partition will help stabilize the wall as the opposing waves of the curve act as buttresses or outriggers. Several other considerations affect the stability of these partitions. Assuming this partition will be framed with studs and curved runners, (much as a typical wall), you need to be sure that the wall has been braced to prevent end-to-end “racking” or leaning, (similar to the shear wall or wind bracing concept). This can be accomplished with a bendable planar wall covering, i.e. any non-elastic material. Gypsum wall board will work but it is heavy and the screws will tend to break loose along the edges as it is transported from site to site. Any of the bendable millwork wood or composite sheets will work fine. The lightest way to accomplish this is to install and metal strap x-brace across the back, non-visible side of the wall, screwing it to every stud and top and bottom plate where it crosses them. The metal banding such as they use to bundle bunks of lumber is plenty strong for this. If both side of the wall are to be visible, you can screw the x-brace strap on the convex of the curve and the strap will be hidden within the wall as it runs from stud to stud. The Deflexion Post we produce is designed for securely anchoring the top of a wall to the structure above, (while allowing for vertical deflection as you said). In order to get much benefit from “feet” on the bottom of the wall, you would need to be sure the feet extend far enough out to prevent tipping. You would also need to be sure the attachment of the foot to the vertical studs in the wall is extremely rigid to prevent bending and thereby leaning of the wall. Bracing this curved moveable type partition laterally at the top of the wall will be more easily accomplished by simply running a “kicker” from the adjacent wall as you mentioned. If the wall is secured at the top, then the bottom of the wall actually only needs to be prevented from sliding or moving on the floor. Usually if this wall is sitting on a carpeted or rubberized floor, then the wall will not tend to slide due to its weight and natural friction. If this wall is to be set on a slick floor such as tile, stone, concrete or terrazzo then you need to create friction between the bottom plate and the floor. Usually this can be done by wadding or rolling up (not too thick) a few 8 inch lengths of duct tape, sticky side out, and putting it under the wall in a few places. This will reduce the tendency of the wall to slide and should not harm the flooring. This could also be accomplished by running another set of kickers at the base of the wall to the adjacent walls as you did at the top of the wall. I hope this answers your questions, let me know if you need further clarifications, Thanks, Frank Wheeler, Flex-Ability Concepts, frank@flexc.com, 405-996-5343